We recently returned from one week in Paris (July 7 – 14, 2009). The weather was not the greatest but in the end it was better than being too hot as we walked miles a day.
Last year I spent 3 days in Paris and wanted to come back for a full week as I felt I had missed a lot. This time I brought my 16 year old daughter who has never been to Paris. It was also my 50th birthday while we were in Paris. It was a girl’s only trip, my husband and 20 year old son stayed at home.
I bought a package deal through Air Transat that was air / hotel / breakfast / transfer to and from the airport for $726 per person, which I thought was a great deal, taxes extra, from Toronto, Canada. The hotel was the Quality Hotel Abaca (I have written a review of the hotel but it is not been posted yet). It is located in the 15th, and is a one minute walk from the Convention Metro Stop on the Green Number 12 Line. When we arrived at the hotel, the check-in process took probably two minutes, I don’t even recall showing any identification, only the “hotel voucher” from the package deal mentioned above. The hotel is very small but clean, renovated bathroom and had a very nice breakfast buffet in the basement. Our room was on the 3rd floor and the windows must have been double glazed as we could not hear the traffic on the street (nor did we hear anyone in the surrounding rooms). The area was wonderful with a bakery across the street, numerous other stores, cafes, grocery stores and a small Monoprix store next door. The closest internet café was about a 10 minute walk up the street. I was very pleased with the hotel and the area.
We accomplished seeing most things but in the end I think I rushed through stuff the first couple of days (especially the Louvre). I am a Type A person and had a list of places and the days to go which were sort of stuck to but not completely. I printed off the instructions a Trip Advisor contributor wrote (sorry can’t remember who) for purchasing the Navigo Decouverte Metro card for the week. Of course I left it in my suitcase when we went to the Metro but I did have the photos I brought from home. I was totally hopeless and unable to follow the instructions on the machine and had to have the Metro employee come out of her booth and help. The card was great as it was unlimited for one week and the Metro system in Paris is fantastic! I was a little worried when I first saw the map of the Metro and all the different lines but it was wonderful to use and best of all, no matter where we walked to in Paris we were close to a Metro stop to hop on if we were tired.
By going to the Eiffel Tower first thing in the morning (about ½ hour before opening) we avoided waiting for hours (it was probably ½ hour wait). We also went to Notre Dame first thing in the morning as well as the Louvre. As I had purchased the Museum Pass on a prior day at Saint Chapelle there was virtually no wait to get into the Louvre using the Museum Pass. We entered the Louvre from underground Metro stop and had less than a five minute wait to get through security then as we had the pass, I showed ID for my 16 year old daughter (free!) and walked right in to the Denon Wing.
The longest wait during the whole week was at the Catacombs. We arrived around 2:15 pm and the line was around the block (actually around the park). At about 2:30 pm, an employee of the Catacombs walked the line and told us that from out point it is approximately a two hour wait and the last people allowed is at 4pm. Quick math made us realize it was not going to work out; we decided to come back first thing in the morning. The next morning we arrived about ½ hour before opening and there was a small line with maybe 20 people ahead of us. It probably took an hour to get in as they were only letting in a few people at a time; in between letting the people in the line into the catacombs, larger groups who were standing off to the side were let in…ughh that was frustrating! The Catacombs were totally worth it and my 16 year daughter said that was her favourite part of the trip!
As I was in Paris last year I was well aware of the prices of food and drinks are quite a bit more expensive than at home (Toronto). As the (included) breakfast at the hotel was a buffet and quite nice, we tried to fill up at breakfast and have a light lunch. Lunch was usually a take out crepe or sometimes just gelato and a baguette (bad mother!). Usually the evening would be in a café.
We lost count of the number of times we were asked “Do you speak English?”. As our reply was always “no” (thanks to Tripadvisor) they quickly moved on. I told my daughter about the gold ring, the “do you speak English” and the bracelet scam before leaving home. We never did get the gold ring but she did have the bracelet guys come to her at Sacre Coeur (but since she knew the scam it was not a problem).
We went to Laudree on the Avenue des Champs Elysees for lunch on my birthday. On the way out I bought a small box of macaroons and then after walking away from the cash I realized I was short changed 5 euros. When I came back to the cash and pointed this out to the cashier she handed me the 5 euros quite quickly and it seemed a little strange she did not seem to think about it?
I felt safe everywhere we went in Paris. It was interesting looking at the apartments in the windows of the real estate offices, the prices are very high, but I guess it is comparable to NYC. I saw a lot of babies and toddlers but strangely not many (Parisian) children. Maybe people move out to the suburbs when their kids get older? My daughter noticed that a lot of people smoke. I also noticed the majority of Parisian women are quite “skinny”. In Paris (and most of Europe) in most cafes the tables are so tiny and close together that getting around the tables at times I found I felt a little large (currently I am a size 4 but I have been up to a size 14). Clothing prices were higher than home and we didn’t purchase a lot; couple of items for my daughter and I bought Hermes perfume (and lots of Eiffel Towers!).
Overall it was a great week in a lovely city. The Parisians are so civilized with their “Bonjour Madame” and “excusez-moi” when trying to get through the crowd to get off at their Metro stop. I do not find the Parisians rude at all; rather, they are quite formal in their manners. Neither do I think Paris is “dirty” (which is another complaint I have heard that I never really understood). A week is a good amount of time to get to “know” a city but I do realize I only scratched the surface.
It was a great week and although I like Paris, I don’t love Paris. Everyone has their “place”. My heart belongs in Italy and in particular, Rome.
Thanks to all who take the time to answer questions on Tripadvisor. Although I did not post many questions, I certainly read many and have learned so much about wherever I am about to visit. I honestly do not know what I did before the Internet and great sites like Tripadvisor!
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Enjoyed your trip report. Made notes of the things that will assist in planning my trip to Paris in the spring.
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I%26#39;m glad you had a good time, but even a week is short. I guess you%26#39;ll just have to keep coming back! If ever you can come %26#39;off season%26#39; or even at Christmas, you will have a completely different experience.
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Great report Charleston. I enjoyed both Rome and Paris also but I give a little edge to Paris. Maybe because the Paris visit is more recent.
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OH, thank you for sharing. You know I will be 50 when my little one will be 16 and I think you inspired me too. And let me tell you gelato + baguette = good mommy in Paris in my book.
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Great report--thanks!
Very interesting and worrying about the Catacombs. That%26#39;s a top destination for us and we%26#39;re only there a short time...I guess that%26#39;s just another thing to have to get to early in the am!
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someone tell be about paris at christmas, i have only ever been in the summer...why such a differnt experience?? ( other than the cold..lol)
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Paris Addicted
Sorry can%26#39;t tell you about Christmas in Paris but we were there late November last year and it was wonderful.Christmas decorations were starting to appear, the window displays at La Fayette were magical and oh the decorated christmas tree inside was a sight to behold.
Disneyland was worth it alone for the festive decorations.
I am an avid collector of Christmas tree decorations from around the world and I got some fabulous ones in Paris.
We had great weather there in November,no queues for anything, at times we felt like we had everything just to ourselves.
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ClassicKiwi:
I too collect Christmas decorations/ornaments on my trips. I was in Paris last year in late Sept and had trouble finding any. Maybe (unlike home) they only put them out in Nov/Dec. Where did you find yours? thanks.
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Thanks for posting your review. Brought me right back. We were there the last week in April this year and are looking forward to returning next year. Yes, like you, I felt I didn%26#39;t get to see nearly half the things I wanted to. Not sure what season we%26#39;ll be going next year yet, but whichever one it is, I%26#39;m sure it will be wonderful! Reminds me so much of San Francisco where I lived for 10 years. Last April when we were sitting at one of the outdoor cafes I swear the street looked almost identical to sections of Market Street in San Francisco. I can see why some people call SF the Paris of the West. I miss SF terribly now living in Florida, but I won%26#39;t get into that. Thanks again for posting.
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We were in Paris for the last weekend before Christmas last year- it is just magical. The lights on the Champs Elysees, drinking vin chaud, admiring the Christmas displays on Boulevard Haussman... and it%26#39;s much quieter than in the summer.
I%26#39;m sure locals will have other reasons to love the Christmastime, but the lights really made my visit, walking hand-in-hand with my lovely boyfriend from Concorde to the Arc- so romantic!
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